Poha, Indian Street Food

It was beside the walls of the Jaisalmer fort in the early morning hours, that I ate Poha. A staple Indian breakfast food and only served at this one stall for two hours each morning, it is lightweight, nutritious and tasty.

Made from beaten rice, poha takes only 5-10 minutes to make and it was a pleasure watching the street food chef cook it up as quickly as if it were a natural reflex. He’d cook fennel and mustard seeds in oil then add caramelized onions, turmeric (hence it’s dominant yellow colour), salt and some beans. Stirring quickly while others chatted nearby he mixed the beaten rice with the fried ingredients and cooked it a couple minutes longer. Topped off with pomegranate seeds, coriander leaves, a wee bit of salt and lemon and it was served to me on a plate with newspaper.

Despite being cooked in oil, the whole meal is remarkably light, refreshing and just the right portion (the size of a palm). It appeared small initially, but the rice was a filling carb and the spices weren’t overwhelming. A lot of Indian cuisine is hearty and dense because of the ghee, coconut milk and rotis, so it was nice to eat something easily digestible that didn’t put me into a food-related coma upon impact.

For as little as a couple cents, you’re welcome to grab seconds and thirds but usually you’ll be plenty full and energized to begin your day. I’ve tried this food while traveling various routes in Rajasthan, but only one gentlemen, in Jaisalmer, added the fruit topping and it made a great difference; a bittersweet tone to an earthy flavour. Even my fellow Indian friend agreed it was his favourite Poha dish in all of India.

→ If you’re keen on eating this man’s food, rise as soon as the marketplace does and head past the tuk tuks outside the fort entrance. You’ll see a crowd of people waiting for breakfast like a long line up at Tim Hortons in the morning, and it’ll feel wonderful being a part of a social practise in a new place.