The North Gate Jazz Co-Op
A haven for expats and foreign travelers, Chiang Mai is brimming with musical activity and North Gate Jazz Co-Op adds to the vibrancy. Located on a major tourist street in the crumbling city walls of the old fortress, the small venue packs in worldwide talent and dancers spilling into the streets.
I found this place because I was living with Lawrence “Binkey” Tolefree, the host and main MC at North Gate Jazz Co-Op. Beyond his apparent infectiousness, he possesses lyrical abilities that charm any listener and a friendly disposition that is as magnetic as loud. Indeed the perfect fit to host some of the best saxophonists, violinists and drummers I’ve heard in a long while.
The vibe is participatory as Binkey encourages the crowd to repeat back words or beats so the audience becomes a part of the musical ensemble. And whether you’re there to sing along, listen or dance, everyone seems to be a part of this rhythmic experiment.
It is both a listening affair and an open mic so locals and nomads gather together to share their music with the regular band members. I recognized faces from Bangkok and even an old friend from Toronto, in this magical space that drew in friendships and networks. So though the night ends early (before midnight), the connections travel further than last call and closing psychedelic jazz notes.
Taking the community vibes that permeate throughout the venue into his own hands, Binkey hosts spoken word events, art & jam nights and vegan cookouts at his home dubbed the “Healing House.” It’s a safe space for “Blackpackers,” vagabonds searching for some meaning and individuals willing to learn from each other.
North Gate Jazz Co-Op, thus, becomes the bridge by which artists can express their work and where individuals can meet with other like-minded travelers such as Binkey and his crew. Perhaps that’s what makes this performance venue so powerful. It’s not just a place to drink and dance or pass the time. Nor is it even a place to listen to some potent improvisations on roaring drums, keyboards and horns. It’s an organic experiment bringing together groups from Berlin, America, UK, Germany and of course Thailand in a sort of lyrical, cultural event. A bubbling stew of talent and friendliness that’ll uplift any worn, wandering soul.
Check out more on the Facebook pages “North Gate Jazz Co-Op” and “Healing House” for future events. Currently Binkey is marketing his “Woke Arts Festival” running from January 15 - 18 2018 in Chiang Mai → details coming soon.
